Antige New York
There are still no Michelin-starred restaurants in Russia. That makes us believe that Russian restaurants do not reach international standards. You might think that the trends, and chefs, and guides gastronomic – better, more creative, more truthful, if from abroad. I spent three weeks in new York and Miami, and I came to shatter the sweet illusions about American gastroculture.
food&travel columnist, journalist
I’m not going to talk about tourist places – what’s the use to paint a wonderful brunch with caviar and champagne in the old hotel The Breakers (palm beach), where the service and the environment are beautiful? This is an exception, not a rule.
For ordinary American institutions is characterized by a pronounced negligence: the table can swing and be slightly sticky, dishes will be chipped, and on the floor there will be garbage. No wine or any other etiquette for you – everything is simple and without frills. The feeling that you distract people from important things, and do not ask the waiter to take the order.
the waiter talking on the phone
Design and stylistic decision, basically, no. Precious wood and stone? Fashion architects? Videotaping? What do you mean? Loft walls, sometimes graffiti, simple furniture. No hit interior, in addition to the collaboration, and the Starbucks Reserve Roastery. Here they set to work on a Grand scale: an area of 2000 square meters, steampunk style and cool merch.
There are almost never any wardrobes. Well if only Miami still all wear shorts. But even in the Northern States! Coats and jackets hanging on the backs of the chairs give the impression of a train station: when the train to Vorkuta was only a few minutes, and all stood waiting. In addition, in the hall of outerwear soaked cocktail of smells of oil and seasonings.
Dirty dishes on the tables are not very interested in the restaurant staff. Strictly see or not see – no rush to change it.
It is necessary to forget at once sincere Moscow conversations on a subject that in the menu tasty. About food allergens you will be warned, but to give recommendations on the order will be afraid. If the table from two people that may forget to bring meals at the same time: eats the one who was more fortunate or whose dish is cooked faster. But the check you will be served without a request: once no orders no longer, why take the table? Pay (preferably 20% tip) and go for the God’s sake.
Quality is the mythical competitive advantage that makes American restaurants the restaurants of your dreams. Perhaps nothing but a smirk the phrase “American quality” in relation to restaurants does not cause me. In the best Italian pizzeria NY (Zagat, the recommendations of the local Italians, all the works) pizza from a convection heater. In fact, the Yelp rating restaurant – crab sticks in the roll without doubts and hesitation. Generous portions of sodium glutamate, flavoring Chinese food, and really bad coffee in restaurants (normal, but not brilliant to look for in coffee shops).
But the water from the tap with ice can be obtained for free. And this is used by absolutely everything, except perhaps that the adherents of the movement save water drink wine. But for them the price for a glass of wine starts from 10-30 dollars depending on the place.
One day we had a brunch with chef Andrew, who works in new York in a super status restaurant, he was looking at my ordered eggs Rothko (no art, just bread, cheese, cut crumb) said: “Wow, I cooked this in the eighth grade.” I do not deny that some products in America are better, but sometimes to have something and be able to use it – different things!
And finally, last but not least, Americans love to leave reviews for just about any occasion for the service of refueling, the range of shops, restaurant menu. Study the sites, look at the relevance and dynamics, choosing a place for lunch/dinner. Perhaps this will reduce the risk of experiencing all the joys of service in American.