Restobar “Parade”: from one to three
Lisa Siropulo fed chef Valery.
Restobar “Parade”: from one to three
One day, seeing the epic mess that was going on in the “Front”, I confess, I thought that this institution will not last six months. But meanwhile, “Front” more than three years, during this time I changed my attitude to it. I was surprised and even inspired by the firmness, courage and desire of the owners of the restobar (a young couple, Svetlana and Yaroslav Dolgov) to stay in the restaurant world of Irkutsk, and soon I began to watch this place with curiosity and even sympathy. However, mostly at a distance, in social networks.
In instagram all these years, the guys talked in detail about the problems with the cooks and other staff, about how the menu changed, how they got married, moved, changed the menu again. In short, the SMM worked — once I caught myself thinking that I worry about the owners, and rejoice with them. And I wanted to assess how much they have grown, opening the updated “Front”: for some reason I believed that now I should like it there. You know, the instructive story seemed like this: everything was out of hand badly, but they did not lose heart, they went forward together, worked hard — and look how well done they are now. Alas, dear readers, I did not get about restobar tales.
The video is very sweet, charming Svetlana touching talks about the details of the new “Front”. When I entered the place, both owners were sitting at a table by the entrance. I didn’t want to “Shine”, so I took the most inconspicuous table under the stairs and that’s why this day was not able to assess all the details, which are referred to on the video from “Instagram”. But later I went back (at the end of article read more about it), and all carefully considered. Yes, mosaic, Yes, the drawings on the ceiling. It is evident that they tried, put their strength. But do these details tell something about the concept and create the atmosphere of the place, as Svetlana says? Not sure. I do not understand what “Front, 7”, all these details do not cause any emotions. In my opinion, bright little things are too few, they are dissolved in the General boredom of the interior. Brick, black ceiling, a lot of metal, dim light — I saw it how many times? Can’t count.
Perhaps the only thing that hints at a certain style — it’s beautiful dishes, which are served. Did you see the way that guests appreciate the feedback as nice plates, gravy boats and so on. I subscribe, and from me for it five. But why all tables in advance are filled with empty glasses — I did not understand. If the waiter poured cucumber or lemon water into them while the guest was deciding on the order, the presence of glass faceted vessels would be justified. And so the dust, the poor man, and all.
The menu is designed, according to the owners, so that “a meat eater and a vegetarian found his dish.” Let’s say. I personally liked that the list of dishes is not dreary, you can see some fantasy: there is a cream borscht, cranberry-juniper sauce, cod and shrimp cutlets — interesting.
Coffee Americano (90 rubles) and latte macchiato (190 rubles)
Three with minus
As for Americano, I felt that the coffee was chosen very much even to my taste: with a light berry acidity. But I do not know how the grain was cooked so that the coffee lost all the density, aroma and saturation. It was watery, weak-tasting drink.
Tried a latte from a friend: the foam is not glossy, not tight, very loose. It tastes like warm milk, doesn’t even smell like coffee. Both of these drinks, as my colleague said, “I tried, and I will not repeat.”
Orange-carrot fresh, 240 rubles
First, the drink was warm. A warm fresh delicious can not be. Secondly, he quickly stratified: carrot-orange cake floated over the clear yellowish water. You can only drink that if you’re thirsty.
Beef tartare with truffle oil, 290 rubles;
One good Irkutsk cook said that there should be at least 12 ingredients in a real tartare. I do not know how much he is right, but I tried his Tartar — he had a great taste of volume, it is impossible to put down. And in General — now almost everywhere to Tartars approach creatively, I like it very much, with pleasure I order this dish wherever I see. And Tartar in the “Front” is probably the worst option of all that I’ve ever seen.
And it was difficult to call it a full-fledged dish: I was served just raw chopped beef. She had very little taste, it seems that the meat is not even pickled a drop, only lightly seasoned with oil. In combination with sweet berry-smoked sauce you could eat a couple of spoons. But not anymore.
Asian salad with duck meat and nut sauce, 310 rubles
“Why is the salad Asian?”— asked the girl-waiter, already far away from the dish. “Because it’s daikon and duck,” she said.
In General, I expected from the Asian dishes characteristic sour-spicy-sweet combination. Give pickled daikon — the sharpness and acidity could be felt chewed it. The vegetable tasted spicy, juicy, crispy. But in the ensemble it was lost, just unable to cope with a huge lettuce in unrefined oil. Besides oil, it was impossible to feel anything. Even quite a nice soft duck barely identified. Even the hard layers of radishes were visible only because they had to be chewed longer than other products. Absolutely not surprised that the salad was removed from the menu, it is a failure.
Cream-borsch with smoked duck meat, 290 rubles
Three with minus
It looks beautiful, the idea is beautiful. The thick velvet broth with tender oblong pieces of duck (with duck in the restaurant order, I realized) had all the chances to get a place of honor in my ranking of the best dishes of Irkutsk. But. In the soup it did an impossible amount of vinegar. Because it has an acid to eat up the soup was not possible.
I’ll go ahead. When I asked for the bill at the end of the meal, the waiter gave an amazing phrase: “I Hope you enjoyed it.” It was not a question, but a statement. We were quiet, there was a pause, because the girl did not want to break hopes. And suddenly she decided to clarify: “Really? You enjoyed it?”. And then I opened all my pain to her, and that’s when she told me about the Asian salad, and then there was a dialogue about borsch.
— Why did they make it so sour?
— I don’t even know why it turned sour. Maybe the beets?
— … and the beet is sour?
— Well… Yes.
Comrades restaurateurs, please, let the girl try beets! It tries to solve problems, but it is impossible without the base.
Stewed beef with mashed green peas, 590 rubles;
Mashed potatoes I liked very much. Thick, it felt fresh herbs — very fragrant turned to the side. There was beef on it. The beef was indeed stewed (this could be guessed from its soft, easily separating from each other fibers and an abundance of juice), but for some reason it was stewed without spices, even almost without salt. It was very annoying because it seems the texture is the ideal, rarely seen such a wonderful tender meat… but fresh! Chewing was unbearably sad.
Esterhazy, 200 rubles
And the pastry chef. With such a dense chocolate-hazelnut flavor, perhaps, can be compared only to the famous bar in a yellow wrapper. Although I am, as chocolate from the stabilizers to equate with the freshest cake. I will never forget the abundance of crispy nuts, tight cakes and delicate chocolate cream of this dessert.
Will miss him, because, probably, again in the “Front” will be back soon. And not just because of the bad tasting, it’s because I tried to come back here again. But my second attempt to eat failed with even more Bang than the first.
As I said, the first time I could not properly assess the situation, and about two weeks later I went to the “Front”, on a weekday, at lunch time. Wanted, by the way, food to try, for I knew that the menu was updated, and suddenly it became better?
Opened the door of the empty places, drew the attention of the bartender. Said Hello, he brought the menu.
Between my two visits the range of restobar was considerably reduced. I have not found in the list of some of the dishes mentioned above: no salad, tartare, fresh carrots removed.
At the same time appreciated the new design of the menu, made of very pleasant to the touch material: soft and matte. On the map of the bar depicted running athletes. The look of their clothes and hairstyles was as if they had fled from a past era. Similar guys “walked” on the ceiling of the institution, by the way. I don’t know what it means, just #atmosphere.
Trying to be charmingly careless, the bartender took my order. I asked if I understood correctly that the selected items in the menu are the most popular dishes of restobar. “No, it’s not top positions, — the bartender waved. — No, it’s just the style of the new menu is: something is allocated… and something is not… Although, maybe the top, I do not know,” – said and made a funny face to me. I smiled absently: “Well, I’ll definitely borsch and pasta and look at the menu.” “Well, I’ll leave you to your thoughts,” and left. Borsch I ordered in the hope that my remark was taken into account, and the broth became less sour.
Soon the bartender appeared with a bowl of soup.
— I have to disappoint you, there will be no pasta. Our chef Valerka, he’s an Intern, and he doesn’t know how to cook pasta.
— What can cook Valery?
— Valery… was Able to reheat the soup for you. I wouldn’t recommend anything else. Excuse me.
I do not know, this is the real name – Valery — or the bartender just jokingly called the guy unfairly abandoned that day to take the rap alone in the kitchen. I only tasted the soup and realized that warmed him badly: he was lukewarm. Although, by the way, the taste has improved – there was less acidic.
— Sorry, — I called the bartender. But it seems that HART and soup can’t handle.
The bartender sighed, apologized and said that the bill can not pay. I walked away confused.